Eight-thousanders-everest

Climbing the seven summits: a route to the top

In 2010 I travelled to Tanzania and trekked to the summit of Kilimanjaro, the “roof of Africa”. I have always loved trekking and hiking, spending several weeks of every year on the slopes of the Scottish Highlands or Welsh Snowdonia – however, topping out on Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, ignited something new inside me. I wanted to take my hobby further, turn it into a passion and really achieve something: climbing the seven summits, the highest mountain on every continent.

Fast forward five years and I haven’t added any of the other six summits to my climbing CV. I have, however, been on several climbing and mountaineering courses to improve my skills and I still believe in climbing the seven summits. Once I’m back in Europe, I intend to have a crack at Elbrus in Russia as my second summit before taking another winter mountaineering course and then moving onto the tougher challenges.

Although I don’t doubt the technical and physical challenges I face, the toughest challenge will likely be a financial one. The seven summits don’t come cheap. Most are difficult to access and each one brings its own separate challenge whether that’s a technical test, hostile weather conditions, poor accessibility or, obviously, altitude. One thing all the mountains have in common is that they are expensive to climb.

I don’t claim to have the answers but I have spent hours and hours researching how I will achieve my dream. Below I list how I – and others like me – have the best chance of climbing the seven summits and achieving our common dream.

1. Kilimanjaro

Location: Africa (Tanzania)
Elevation: 5,895m (19,341ft)
Range: none – freestanding
Duration: 5-6 days
Grading: T1
Cost: from £2,000

Climbing the seven summits a route to the top - kili

The world’s highest freestanding mountain is a good introduction to high-altitude and multi-day expeditions. No mountaineering experience is necessary on this non-technical trek.

‘Introduction to Winter Mountaineering’ course

Spend at least five days in the Scottish highlands midwinter learning basic crampon, ice axe and rope skills. Look at climbing knots, belaying, snow anchors and avalanche assessment.

2. Mount Elbrus

Location: Europe (Russia)
Elevation: 5,642m (18,510ft)
Range: Caucasus Mountains
Duration: 7 days
Grading: 1C
Cost: from £2,500

climbing the seven summits elbrus

Put the winter mountaineering skills to practice on Europe’s highest mountain. Avoid the cable cars and chair lifts to truly test yourself on Elbrus’s icy slopes, which require good crampon technique.

Intermediate / Advanced Winter Mountaineering course

Combine an intermediate and advanced course in either Scotland or the French Alps to further develop crampon, ice axe and rope skills. Gain experience of climbing on glaciated peaks and acclimatisation techniques. Consider summiting Mont Blanc – western Europe’s highest mountain.

Oberland 4,000ers course

Summit three really testing mountains over 4,000m in the alps in an intensive week-long course. This provides more training to ensure your rope work is intuitive by the time you tackle the more demanding high-altitude mountains.

3. Mount McKinley (Denali)

Location: North America (USA)
Elevation: 6,194m (20,322ft)
Range: Alaska Range
Duration: 21-26 days
Grading: 3D
Cost: from £5,000

Climbing the seven summits a route to the top - denali

This is arguably the second most difficult mountain of the seven summits. It is a tough expedition because climbers need to carry heavy loads or pull them on sledges. The notoriously stormy and unpredictable weather on the mountain only makes matters worse. It’s perfect preparation for Vinson.

4. Mount Vinson

Location: Antarctica
Elevation: 4,892m (16,050ft)
Range: Sentinel Range
Duration: 18 days
Grading: 2B
Cost: from £15,000

Climbing the seven summits a route to the top - vinson

(Image: Christian Stangl, Creative Commons)

The last of the seven summits to be discovered, Vinson rises from the most hostile, isolated yet untouched continent on Earth. This long climb, though technically moderate, should not be misjudged. The combination of remoteness and potentially extreme conditions means you need considerable mountaineering experience to tackle this mountain.

5. Aconcagua

Location: South America (Argentina)
Elevation: 6,961m (22,838ft)
Range: Andes
Duration: 21 days
Grading: 1A
Cost: from £3,000

climbing the seven summits south america

The second-highest summit of the seven and the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas, Aconcagua is an awesome mountain. The route is non-technical and often referred to as the “highest trekking peak in the world”. It could be climbed earlier in the program but it makes sense to climb it on the way back from Vinson while you’re in that part of the world (ish).

Rock climbing course

Hone your rock climbing skills and work on specialist techniques (jumaring a hanging rope for example). These skills will be essential for your next challenge.

6. Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid)

Location: Oceania (Indonesia)
Elevation: 4,884m (16,024ft)
Range: Sudirman Range
Duration: 20 days
Grading: 4A
Cost: from £5,000

Climbing the seven summits a route to the top - jaya

(Image: Mgiganteus, Creative Commons)

This is a very technical mountain and you need to be able to abseil and jumar a hanging rope. Despite it being the lowest of the seven summits, do not underestimate this mountain.

Cho Oyu, Nepal

Elevation: 8,201m (26,906ft)
Duration: 40 days

Here’s the ‘mock exam’ for Everest. The high camp is at 7,400m – much higher than you will have camped previously. Here you’ll need to practise using oxygen and refining your clothing and equipment. It’s best to attempt it with a group of climbers who are also going to Everest soon. Together, you can increase your chances on Everest. It’s worth noting that Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world and the most frequently climbed 8,000m peak.

7. Mount Everest

Location: Asia (Nepal/China)
Elevation: 8,848m (29,029ft)
Range: Himalaya
Duration: 60 days
Grading: 4E
Cost: £50,000

best national parks in the world nepal everest

The big one. The South Col route from Nepal remains the most realistic route. It’s technically easier and with the top camp at just under 8,000m, it means you spend less time in the ‘Death Zone’. This is your best shot at Sagarmāthā. Despite success and survival rates improving dramatically in the last couple of decades, don’t kid yourself for a minute – there have been 54 fatalities since 2000. This is the highest mountain on Earth – and incredibly dangerous. Good luck.

Notes:

  • Costs are calculated to include airfares from the UK.
  • Additional training courses would (of course) be beneficial. Particularly more Alpine and high-altitude practice.
  • This program is based on the Messner or Carstensz list assuming that the highest point in Oceania is the Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia and not Mount Kosciuszko in Australia.

For an excellent analysis of each summit,  professional mountain guide Mike Hamill has written Climbing the Seven Summits: A Guide to Each Continent’s Highest Peak.

(Additional photography: Dreamstime)

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